ABOUT EGGS

Eggs get a bad rap. One of my friends says that egg yolks are poison and when he asks for poached eggs, eats very carefully all around the yolk, leaving it untouched, to be discarded. Lately, eggs have been enjoying a revival and even heath gurus tell us that eggs eaten in moderation are not so bad. Eggs are, after all, the perfect food. Here are some hints for preparing them in ways to take advantage of their goodness.

 

PERFECT HARD-BOILED EGGS

 

Put the eggs in a large heavy pot and cover them with 1 1/2" of cold water. Partially cover the pot and bring the water to a rolling boil. Reduce heat to low and cook the eggs, covered completely, for 30 seconds. Remove the pot from the heat and let the eggs stand in the hot water (still covered) for 15 minutes. Then run the eggs under cold water for about 5 minutes. This prevents yolk discoloration due to overcooking and makes peeling easier, as does using eggs that are at least a few days old.

 

 

TO CODDLE AN EGG

 

I guess this could mean to "treat gently." For the perfect egg for Caesar salad, lower a room temperature egg gently into a pan of simmering water and leave it there for one minute only.

 

 

SINFULLY CREAMY SCRAMBLED EGGS

 

At Bill's Café in Sydney, they serve these incredible scrambled eggs. Use a nonstick pan and the merest sliver of butter (a quarter of an ounce), a pinch of salt, no water and half a cup of cream for two eggs. (I know, I know. Just try it once.) Melt the butter over high heat, whisk the other ingredients together in a bowl, pour them into the pan and do nothing for 20 seconds. (Yes; I know that's hard to do. But it's important.) Then stir very slowly with a wooden spoon, folding the rim of the egg mixture toward the center. Don't churn away like a cement mixer. Pause for another 20 seconds, then repeat the gently stirring and folding process. Take the pan off the flame, allowing the residual heat in the pan to complete the cooking. Finally, give the eggs one last swirl. Et voila!

 

 

FOR VERY FLUFFY SCRAMBLED EGGS

 

Over low to moderate heat - except for omelets, eggs should be cooked slowly so protein in them doesn't make the eggs tough - scramble the eggs with a wire whisk from beginning to end. This makes very small curds, making the eggs lighter and fluffy.

 

 SCRAMBLED EGGS vs. OMELETS

 

 

When making omelets, you want the pan very hot so the omelet will cook quickly. Heat the bare pan until, when you toss a couple of drops of water into it, the water skitters around the pan like mad. Then throw in the butter, just enough to coat the surface of the pan. When the foam subsides, pour in the eggs and stir them in a circular motion with a fork (flat against the surface of the pan) while moving the pan back and forth over the burner (sort of like patting your head and rubbing your stomach at the same time; remember that?) tilting it so that egg runs into places where there are no eggs. Keep the whole thing going so that as the omelet sets, it still slides across the pan freely. When ready, add filling into 1/3 the surface, tilt the pan and roll the omelet out onto the plate, folding it over as you go. Most people like their eggs thoroughly cooked but remember that the omelet will cook some more on the plate and that the inside should be soft, not hard. It helps to have a pan you use only for omelets. And if you can, never wash it; just wipe it out. (When my omelet sticks to the surface of my omelet pan, I scrub the scab with some kosher salt and then wipe the pan clean.)

 

When making scrambled eggs, you want the pan to be only moderately hot so the eggs will cook slowly. When the pan is hot, melt the butter - more or less, depending on the number of eggs you're cooking - and throw in the eggs. If you're in a hurry, you can scrape away like mad. However, Alexander's mother always said that as the eggs begin to set, you should scrape them with a fork from the outside of the pan to the middle. This will create a pile in the middle of the pan and keep the eggs from being too firm.