Saturday, June 29, 2013

ORANGES IN MARSALA

This is a very simple dessert and easy to put together. It's also very pretty, the oranges a nice contrast to white dishes. I've often served this dessert to guests who are concerned about calories (even though this recipe contains half a cup of sugar). Be sure to cut all the rind off the fruit; the rind is bitter. See "How to Segment Fruit" elsewhere on my blog to show you how to get rid of the skin. With a sharp knife. But be careful of your fingers.

ORANGES IN MARSALA
serves 4

4 1/2 naval oranges
1/2 C sugar
1/2 C sweet Marsala wine

1. Squeeze enough juice from 1/2 orange to measure 2 T. Cut peel, including all white pith, from remaining 4 oranges with a sharp knife and discard, then cut oranges crosswise into 1/4" thick slices.

2. Cook sugar in a dry small heavy saucepan over moderate heat, undisturbed, until it begins to melt. Continue to cook, stirring occasionally with a fork, until sugar is melted into a deep golden caramel. Add juice and wine carefully (caramel will harden and steam and protest vigorously). Just continue to cook over moderately low heat, stirring, until caramel is dissolved, about 5 minutes. Remove sauce from heat.

3. Arrange orange slices, overlapping, in 4 shallow bowls and spoon sauce over fruit. Let macerate at least 30 minutes before serving.

Note: can be prepared 4 hours ahead and kept, covered, at room temperature.

Friday, June 28, 2013

STRAWBERRIES WITH BALSAMIC VINEGAR

Like strawberries Romanoff, this dessert is also simplicity itself but with an entirely different taste. And intead of the Gulf of Finland, think of Tuscany or Venice. The deep flavor of aged balsamic vinegar makes an interesting contrast to the sweetness of strawberries. Be sure to used aged vinegar; the regular stuff just doesn't cut it. Very romantic! Adapted from  Osteria di Rubbiara.


STRAWBERRIES WITH BALSAMIC VINEGAR
serves 4

1 pint fresh strawberries
2 t aged balsamic vinegar
2-3 T sugar

1. Trim and halve strawberries. In a bowl, drizzle strawberries with vinegar and macerate at room temperature 15 minutes. Sprinkle stawberries with sugar and serve.

Thursday, June 27, 2013

CHAMPAGNE COCKTAILS

In view of our triumphs of yesterday, I suppose I should post a grand recipe for a wedding cake. But knowing that none of you will make one - and I sure haven't - I'll do the next best thing and post a recipe for a celebration drink, a Champagne Cocktail. This requires a champagne flute and if you don't have one, rush out and buy a couple of cheap ones at Crate and Barrel. Or if you want to spring for grand, Tiffany sells two in a lovely box, something I usually give for a wedding gift. You can use them every year to celebrate on the anniversary of this day (or yesterday) and again on your own anniversary.

This really is the most elegant cocktail there is. Naturally, it's best made with top-quality Champagne but it also contains bitters and sugar, which help to hide - or complicate - the taste of Champagne that's not the best. While there are several types of bitters, I recommend Angostura, a concentrated mix of alcohol, herbs and spices, which packs a powerful flavor. It is essential here.

CHAMPAGNE COCKTAIL
for each serving



1 small square of sugar cube, like the kind for coffee, but not the rectangular one
tiny dash of bitters
3-4 ounces of chilled Champagne

1. Place the sugar in the bottom of a champagne flute (not the birdbath kind)

2. Add the bitters.

3. Fill with chilled Champagne and serve

4. Pretend you're Cary Grant or, if you prefer, Deborah Kerr, in that soapy movie on board one of the Queens, going to see your grandmother in Europe and celebrate our day, or your own.

Wednesday, June 26, 2013

SUMMER PUDDING

This is an easy and not too sweet dessert that can be made the day before, always a plus in my book. Although I've never eaten it in Britain, I was told by the chef who gave me the recipe that it's traditional there and, like English triffle, uses what's left over in the kitchen. Of course, I never seem to have anything left over in my kitchen so I have to make a special trip to the market for these ingredients. Maybe you'll be luckier than I am.

SUMMER PUDDING
serves 4-6

1lb egg bread, cut into 3/8" pieces (best with crusts removed)
6 C berries (can be mixed, but not too many fruits with seeds)
1 C sugar
3 T lemon juice

whipped cream flavored with rum or brandy

1. Line a mold with plastic wrap and cover the bottom and sides with pieces of bread. (The plastic will help to hold the bread in place, but smash it in if need be. I use a souffle dish for my mold.)

2. Cook the berries with the sugar and lemon juice over medium heat, until the berries begin to release their juices. Place the berries in the prepared mold in layers: bread, berries, bread, berries, etc. finishing with bread on top. Cover the top with plastic wrap and put a weight on the mold to compress the mixture. Chill overnight.

3. Remove plastic wrap from top of the mold and release the pudding from the mold by using the rest of the plastic wrap to lift out the pudding. Remove wrap from pudding carefully and spoon or slice the pudding into portions. Serve with whipped cream, flavored with a little rum or brandy, if you like, or with  creme fraiche.

Thursday, June 20, 2013

STRAWBERRIES ROMANOV (OR ROMANOFF)

Reminiscent of old Russia (or at least of the old Russian Tea Room in New York, once gone and now back again), this dessert is simplicity itself: just the berries, some Cointreau and sweetened whipped cream. Imagine having this dessert in some huge palace somewhere on the Gulf of Finland in a dining room lit only by candles. Small, wild strawberries and champagne, a string quartet playing Mozart or Chopin in the background. What romance!


STRAWBERRIES ROMANOFF
serves 4

Quarter 1 lb strawberries and gently toss with 1/4 C Cointreau and 2 T sugar, then macerate at room temperature, stirring twice, for 20 minutes. Whip 1/2 C chilled heavy cream with 1 T sugar until it just holds stiff peaks. Serve berries with their juices and whipped cream.

Tuesday, June 18, 2013

BLOG INDEX

Phil’s Favorite Food
Blog Entries
Index by Category (as of June 18, 2013)

This is a list of recipes posted on Phil’s blog, Phil’s Favorite Food. Each recipe shows the date of posting so it will be easier to find. These can all be accessed and downloaded at philsfavoritefood.blogspot.com


Drinks

Bloody Marys                                                              Feb 5
Creamsicles                                                               Feb 5
The Authentic, Traditional Mint Julep                          May 2


Hors d’Oeuvres

Bar Nuts (Phil’s Nuts)                                                 Jan 16
Roasted Eggplant Dip (for Chicken Curry)                 Jan 30
Artichoke Squares                                                      Feb 1
Jim’s Olive Tapenade                                                 Feb 24
Curried Cheese Spread                                              Mar 3
Rice Krispie Squares                                                  Mar 5
Creamed Mushroom Bruschetta with Onions            May 10
Mexican Appetizer                                                       May 13
Cucumber Pickles with Cheese and Rye Bread        May 20
Marinated Olives                                                         May 21
Olive Tapenade                                                           May 22
Pate                                                                             May 23
Caviar with Cream Cheese                                        May 28
Gala Cocktail Dip                                                        Jun 9
David’s Artichokes                                                      Jun 13



Soup and First Courses

Cold Curried Apple Soup                                            Jan 17
Corn Chowder                                                                        Feb 3
Melon Carpaccio                                                         Mar 4
Tomato Aspic                                                              Mar 13
Cold Tomato Soup with Cucumber and Melon          Mar 15
Easy Oysters Rockefeller                                           Mar 20
Minted Pea Soup                                                         Mar 22
Nancy Hernke’s Onion Soup                                      Mar 24
Watermelon Salad                                                      May 24
Senegalese Soup                                                       Jun 8
Pasta e Fagioli                                                            Jun 11
Cold Asparagus, or Zucchini, Soup                            Jun 12
David’s Artichokes                                                      Jun 13
Red Pepper Soup                                                       Jun 14
Butternut Squash Soup with Star Anise and Shrimp Jun 16



Salads and Dressings

Vinaigrette Dressing                                                   Jan 24
Ina Garten’s Green Salad Vinaigrette             Jan 24
Raita (for Chicken Curry Dinner)                                Jan 29
Sweetheart Salad                                                       Feb 14
The Best Caesar Salad Ever, No Kidding                  Mar 8
Chicken Salad Veronique                                           Mar 10
Aunt Nola’s Boiled Dressing                                       Mar 11
Chicken Salad a la Danny Kaye                                 Mar 12
Peggy’s Sweet and Sour Dressing                            Mar 16
Cobb Salad                                                                 Mar 28
Watermelon Salad                                                      May 24
Smoked Turkey and Wild Rice Salad                         Jun 17


Meat

Beef Stew                                                                   Jan 19
Bill Blass’s Meatloaf                                                    Jan 20
Meatloaf, Maple Glazed                                               Jan 21
Country Style Sausage and Fried Apples                   Feb 7
Moroccan Lamb Stew with Prunes                            Feb 11
Lemon and Ginger Pork Roast                                   Feb 12
Beef Bourguignon                                                       Feb 16
Sauteed Pork Chops                                                  Feb 21
Veal Marsala                                                               Feb 28
Saltimbocca                                                                Mar 1
Pineapple and Molasses Spareribs                            Mar 2
Roasted Pork Loin with Fig Sauce                             Mar 6
Choucroute a l’Alsacienne                                          Mar 23
Dinah Shore’s Meatloaf                                               Apr 2
Chili                                                                             Apr 7
Hot Dogs (with Pate)                                                  May 29


Chicken and Turkey

Chicken Cutlets                                                          Jan 25
Chicken Curry                                                             Jan 26
Chicken Stew with Italian Sausage                            Feb 1
Chicken Cacciatore                                                    Feb 25
Chicken with White Wine and Tarragon                     Feb 25
Turkey Tetrazzini                                                        Feb 27
Chicken Marsala                                                         Feb 28
How to Cook Chicken, Roasting, Poaching               Mar 9
Chicken Marengo                                                        Mar 25
Curried Chicken and Shrimp                                      Mar 26
Grilled Chicken Breasts                                              Apr 9
Perfect Roast Chicken                                               May 11


Seafood

Curried Chicken and Shrimp                                      Mar 26
Salmon Mousse with Dill Sauce                                 Apr 9
Mussels with Parsley and Garlic                                Apr 13
Crab Imperial                                                              Apr 17
Tartar Sauce, or Remoulade                                      Apr 18
Scallops with Leeks and Pernod                                May 3


Eggs

M & J Egg Casserole                                                  Feb 6
Cheese Souffle                                                           May 8
Bacon and Egg Pie                                                     May 14
Sue Ray’s Breakfast Casserole                                 May 15
Breakfast Casserole                                                   May 16
Cowboy Christmas Breakfast                                                May 17
A Simple Frittata                                                         Jun 3


Side Dishes and Vegetables

Corn Pudding                                                              Jan 22
Asparagus                                                                   Jan 23
Hashed Browns                                                          Feb 8
Tomato Pudding                                                         Feb 13
Haricots Verts in Mustard Sauce                                Feb 14
A Riff on Side Dishes                                                  Mar 14
Scalloped Potatoes (Gratin)                                       Mar 19
Fennel Potato Gratin                                                   Mar 19
Chunky Applesauce                                                    Mar 21
Comfort Carrots                                                          Mar 29
Barb’s Baked Mushrooms                                          Mar 30
Succotash                                                                   Mar 31
Brussels Sprouts                                                        Apr  1
Another Corn Pudding                                                Apr 12
Broiled Tomatoes                                                       Apr 15
Peperoni                                                                      Apr 20
Sweet Potato Spears, Molasses and Horseradish    Apr 23
Cooking Sweet Corn                                                   Jun 7
Fresh Peas and New Potatoes                                  Jun 10



Bread, Rice and Pasta

Basmati Rice (for Chicken Curry)                              Jan 28
Nann (for Chicken Curry)                                            Jan 29
Classic Macaroni and Cheese                                   Feb 17
Barb’s Mac and Cheese                                             Feb 17
Ina Garten’s Mac and Cheese                                    Feb 17
Mark Bittman’s Mac and Cheese                                Feb 17
Giada de Laurentiis’s Mac and Cheese                      Feb 17
The Ultimate Mac and  Cheese                                  Feb 17
Lasagna with Sausage                                               Feb 18
Easy Cheese Lasagna (Weight Watchers)               Feb 19
Bert’s Vegetable Lasagna                                           Feb 19
Bert’s Tomato Basil Sauce                                         Feb 19
Nick and Tony’s Penne with Vodka                            Feb 22
Spaghetti Carbonara                                                   Feb 23
Noodles with Carrots and  Dill                                    Mar 27
Wild Mushroom Lasagna                                            Apr 3
Pasta with Four Cheeses                                           Apr 10
Jenny’s Keugel                                                            Apr 11
Baked Rice                                                                 May 4

Dessert

Macaroons with Ice Cream                                         Jan 24
Cardamom Pound Cake (for Chicken Curry)             Jan 31
Fresh Fruit                                                                  Feb 9
Tiramisu                                                                      Feb 26
Pistachio-Crusted Cheesecake                                 Mar 18
Warm Fruit Compote                                                  Apr 4
Alexander’s Apple Cake                                              Apr 5
Apple Brown Betty                                                      Apr 6
Chocolate Amaretti Cake                                            Apr 8
Sweet Potato Pie                                                        Apr 12
Ginger Pound Cake                                                    Apr 14
Sableuse                                                                     Apr 16
Pie Crust, Foolproof                                                    Apr 21
Derby Pie                                                                    Apr 22
Grandmother’s Key Lime Pie                                     Apr 24
Pumpkin Banana Mousse Tart                                   Apr 25
Cherry Tortoni                                                             Apr 26
Chocolate Flan                                                            Apr 30
Pernod Flan                                                                May 1
Uncle Dutch’s Pineapple Pudding                              May 5
Katherine Hepburn’s Brownies                                   May 6
$1000 Peanut Brittle Cookies                                     May 7
Rum Raisin Rice Pudding                                          May 9
Strawberry Short Cake                                               May 12
Hummingbird Cake                                                     May 25
Chocolate Peanut Butter Cookies                              Jun 15
Oatmeal Pecan Cranberry Cookies                           Jun 18


Other

Condiments for Chicken Curry Dinner                       Jan 28
How to Hard Boil Eggs                                                Feb 6
How to Segment Fruit                                                 Feb 9
Hints for Making Brunch Easier                                  Feb 10
Giada’s Bechemal Sauce                                           Feb 17
To Do Ahead                                                               Mar 8
Mom’s Pancakes                                                        Apr 19
A Riff on a Dinner Party                                              May 24



OATMEAL PECAN CRANBERRY COOKIES

These turned out to be so good that I just can't resist posting them. As inspiration, I started with a recipe from Ina Garten but decided to substitute and add, like any good cook should do when it suits his purpose. I'm sure you could use raisins instead of cranberries but that would make the cookies more usual. But if you can't find, or don't have the cranberries on hand, don't rush out to buty them. Just use raisins. And I'm sure you could substitute walnuts for the pecans but pecans are sweeter and have a more gentle flavor. Whatever the nuts, heat them in a 350 degree oven for 5 to 10 minutes to bring out the oils. It intensifies the flavor. (Don't you just hate it when people say to cook for 5 to 10 minutes? I mean, one is twice as long as the other! Just use the time as a guide. After 5 minutes, check on the nuts to see if they've darkened slightly and if you can smell the flavor. If so, take them out. If not, cook them a little, but not a lot, longer. It's as simple as that.)

OATMEAL PECAN CRANBERRY COOKIES
makes 30 cookies (but see note below)

1 1/2 C pecans
1/2 lb unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 C dark brown sugar, lightly packed
1 C granulated sugar
2 extra-large eggs, at room temperature
2 t pure vanilla extract
1 1/2 C flour
1 t baking powder
1 t ground cinnamon
1 t kosher salt
3 C old-fashioned oatmeal
1 1/2 C dried cranberries

1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

2. Place the pecans on a sheet pan and bake for 5 to 10 minutes, until darkened in color and slightly crisp. Set aside to cool. Chop coarsely.

3. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter, brown sugar, and granulated sugar together on medium high speed until light and fluffy, about 5 minutes. With the mixer on low, add the eggs, one at a time, and the vanilla.

4. Sift the flour, baking powder, cinnamon, and salt together into a medium bowl. With the mixer on low, slowly add the dry ingredients to the butter mixture. Add the oats, cranberries and pecans and mix just until combined. (In order to keep the cookies light, you can add the cranberries and pecans with a spatula instead of using the mixer.)

5. Using a small ice cream scoop or a tablespoon, drop 2" mounds of dough onto sheet pans lined with parchment paper. Flatten slightly with damp fingers. Bake for 12 to 15 minutes, until lightly browned. Transfer the cookies to a baking rack  and cool completely. (I leave the cookies in the pans for 30 seconds or so, so that when I transfer them to the wire rack, they won't fall apart.)

Note: if you want to make more cookies, use 3 eggs instead of 2 and place the mounds close enough together so that the dough forms a complete sheet as it cooks instead of individual cookies. Bake a little longer, until the tops of the cookies are slighly brown and then remove from the oven. Cool the dough in the cookie pan and when cool enough, slice with a sharp knife into squares or rectangles. In order to bake the cookies to the same doneness, I switch the pans from lower to upper racks in the oven halfway through the cooking process. To be sure the butter and eggs are at room temperature, I leave them out overnight.