TARTAR SAUCE (OR REMOULADE)

Many, many years ago, when I was a waiter at The Mary Ann Inn in Rehoboth Beach, it was my job to make the tartar sauce each night before dinner. I opened a jar of mayonnaise and added some relish. That was it, and when I'm in a hurry, I still make it that way. But a more rounded and flavor-layered sauce is so much better. I'm giving two here: one adapted from The New York Times and the other from a friend of a friend of a friend who told my friend not to share it except with a friend. So, friends, here they are. Both of them.

TARTAR SAUCE

makes about one cup

I C Hellmann's mayonnaise

4 cornichons, finely chopped

1 medium shallot, finely chopped

1 T capers, drained

1/4 C Dijon mustard

1 t lemon juice

1. Combine well and serve.

Note: cornichons are those slightly tart pickles served with pate. If you can't find them, or don't want to spring for a whole bottle when you need just a few, you can use any other pickles except dilled ones. And, in a pinch, use pickle relish, just as I did at The Mary Ann Inn.

REMOULADE SAUCE

for crab cakes or cold fish

1 C Hellmann's mayonnaise (or home made, if you have the energy)

2 t anchovy paste

2 T minced pickles, preferably cornichons

2 T chopped parsley

1 T fresh, chopped tarragon

1 t chopped fresh chervil

1 T chopped, drained capers.

1. Mix all ingredients together and serve.

Note: the chervil is nice but not essential (especially for only 1 teaspoon). The other ingredients are all important, especially the tarragon, which gives this remoulade a more interesing flavor than the tartar sauce above.