CHICKEN STUFF

There are lots of ways to cook chicken - roasting, baking, barbecuing - but if you're going to use the chicken in some other recipe, particularly a cold one like chicken salad, I've found that poaching is the best. (See my caveat below.) The trick is to get it done, but not too done. There's nothing worse than dried-out chicken. Then you have to use lots of mayonnaise to disguise this problem and mayonnaise, these days, is a problem in itself.

Poaching allows the chicken to cook slowly and keeping it in the poaching liquid while it cools helps to keep it moist. You might want to cut into a piece at the end of the process, just to be sure it's done. You can be fearless in your herbs. Although thyme has a certain affinity for chicken, use anything you want that helps to give the chicken a flavor that will contribute to its ultimate partners in whatever dish you're making. And remember, the wine you use in your recipes should be just as good as the wine you drink. Increase the quantities of additive when you're poaching more than 2 pieces.

A Caveat: Since writing this some years ago, I've come to the conclusion that the best way to cook chicken breasts is to buy them with the bones and skin. Rub the skin thoroughly with olive oil and sprinkle the chicken with salt and pepper and whatever herb you're using. Roast the breasts on a roasting sheet in the middle of the oven for 30-35 minutes at 350 degrees. Buying breasts this way is less expensive and the bones add flavor and the skin adds enough fat to keep the breasts from drying out.

But for poaching one whole breast (2 pieces)

1/2 C dry white wine
1/2 t salt
1 T black peppercorns
juice of half a fresh lemon
5 sprigs of thyme

1. In a large saucepan combine the wine, salt, peppercorns, lemon juice and thyme sprigs. Add the chicken breast (two halves) and enough water to cover. Heat the liquid to a boil and skim off any scum that forms. Reduce the heat and simmer for 10 minutes. Remove pan from the heat, and allow the chicken to cool in the liquid for 45 minutes.

Another way to roast boneless breasts is to marinate them first in olive oil and whatever herbs you select, for 20 minutes or so. Roast them on a roasting sheet for 25-30 minutes at 350 degrees.

 

ROAST PORK TENDERLOIN WITH APPLES AND CIDER SAUCE

Pork tenderloin doesn't have much flavor so the many ways it can be marinated and/or cooked provide the interest. One friend of mine marinates it in Key West bitter orange juice that not only flavors it but tenderizes it as well. Here, there is no marinade, just a lovely combination of the sweetness of apples and the tartness of vinegar. Yum! Be careful not to cook the tenderloin too long or it will get tough.

ROAST PORK TENDERLOIN WITH APPLES AND CIDER SAUCE

serves 6

 

2 3/4 lb each pork tenderloins

1 T vegetable oil

1 T unsalted butter

2 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored and each cut into 16 wedges

1 C low sodium fat free chicken broth

2/3 C unfiltered apple cider

1/2 t arrowroot

1 T water

2 t cider vinegar

1/2 t salt

1/4 t black pepper

 

 1. Preheat oven to 425.

 

2. Pat tenderloins dry and season with salt and pepper. Heat oil in a 12-inch, oven proof non-stick skillet over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking, then brown tenderloins on all sides, turning with tongs, about 5 minutes total. Transfer skillet to upper third of oven and roast until a thermometer inserted diagonally into center of meat registers 155 degrees, about 12-15 minutes. Transfer to a platter and let stand, loosely covered with foil, 15 minutes before slicing.

 

3. While meat is standing, heat butter in same skillet over moderately high heat, until foam subsides. Add apple wedges and saute, turning occasionally, until tender and golden brown, 5-7 minutes. Transfer apples to plate, then add chicken broth and cider to skillet. Bring to a boil over high heat and meanwhile, whisk together arrowroot and water in a small bowl. (The arrowroot thickens the sauce.) Whisk arrowroot mixture into sauce and boil until thickened and reduced to about 1 cup, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in vinegar, measured salt and pepper, and any juices that have accumulated on the platter.

 

 

4. Cut meat into 1/2" thick slices and serve topped with apples and sauce.

OSSO BUCO

Many years ago, I belonged to a dinner club, you know, the kind of group that would meet maybe once a month at the home of a member who would provide an interesting meal. While the idea was a good one, there was a tendency toward competition, which ultimately spoiled it for everyone. Toward the end, one member prepared this time-consuming and costly, but incredibly succulent dish. I've had it numerous times since then but John's recipe, given here, is still the best. This is a lot of work but worth the effort.

 

OSSO BUCO

(Braised Veal shanks)

serves 6

 

1 C finely chopped onion

2/3 C finely chopped carrot

2/3 C finely chopped celery

1/4 C butter

1 t minced garlic

2 strips lemon peel (you can use a vegetable peeler)

1/2 C vegetable oil

6 pieces veal shanks cut 2" thick

3/4 C flour, for dredging

1 C dry white wine

1 1/2 C beef broth, preferably homemade but boxed or canned will do

1 1/2 C canned Italian tomatoes, coarsely chopped, with juice

1/4 t dried thyme

2 bay leaves

2-3 sprigs fresh parsley

4 fresh basil leaves.

freshly ground black pepper (about 6 twists of the mill)

salt, only if necessary (the broth has a lot of salt in it.)

 

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

 

2. Use a heavy casserole or Dutch oven with a tight -fitting lid just big enough to hold all pieces of veal in a single layer. (If your casserole isn't large enough, use two smaller ones, dividing the ingredients but adding 1 extra tablespoon of butter to each.) Put in the onion, carrot and celery and  butter and cook over medium heat on stove top for 8-10 minutes or until the vegetables soften and wilt. Add the chopped garlic and lemon peel and remove the casserole from the heat. 

 

3. Heat the oil in a skillet over medium high heat. Dredge veal all over in the flour. When the oil is ready (if a corner of the meat sizzles when inserted in the oil, it's ready), brown the veal thoroughly on all sides. (Be sure to brown the veal immediately after dipping it in the flour. Otherwise, the flour dampens and the veal will not brown properly.

 

4. When the veal is browned, stand each piece flat and side by side on top of the vegetables in the casserole.

 

5. Using a spoon, skim the fat from the skillet. Add the wine to the juices from the veal and boil the mixture briskly for about 3 minutes, scraping loose all the brown particles from the skillet. Pour this mixture over the veal in the casserole.

 

6. Using the same skillet, bring the broth to a boil and pour that into the casserole.

 

7. Add the chopped tomatoes with their juice, the thyme, basil, bay leaves, parsley and pepper. This broth should cover the meat. If not, add more broth.

 

8, Bring the contents of the casserole to a simmer on top of the stove. Cover tightly and place in the lower third of the preheated oven.

 

9. Cook for about 2 hours, carefully turning veal every 20 minutes or so. When done, the veal should be very tender when pricked with a fork and the sauce should be dense and creamy. (If the liquid in the casserole begins to cook away, you can add up to 1/3 cup of warm water. If there seems to be too much liquid, remove the meat to a warm platter, place uncovered casserole on stove top and reduce the liquid over high heat.)

 

10. Transfer the veal to a serving platter or individual plates, using care so that the meat won't fall apart. Pour the sauce from the casserole over the meat.

 

Note: In addition to the meat, the marrow in the cavity in the bones is delicious. Osso Buco is traditionally served with polenta but I find this too heavy. Steamed rice and green vegetable like peas makes a better combination. Serve with a light red wine like Merlot of Beaujolais.

 





PORK WITH BOURBON SOAKED PRUNES AND APRICOTS

Like many cooks, I have an extensive collection of dried herbs in my cupboard, most of which I use only occasionally. Because of this, I always worry about buying fresh ones and then using them for only one recipe. Here, the fresh rosemary is worth the expense (you can always use any left over with roasted potatoes or in scrambled eggs). Fresh bread crumbs are easy to make in your food processor but if you find this too much trouble, you can always buy them in the supermarket. Just be sure to get those for this recipe that are unflavored. Dried fruit, as here with prunes and apricots, is a natural combination with pork. This stunning entree is likely to transform privileged dinner guests into lifelong friends.

PORK WITH BOURBON SOAKED PRUNES AND APRICOTS

serves 8-10

1/2 C pitted prunes

1/2 C dried apricots

1 C bourbon

1 1/2 C fresh breadcrumbs

3/4 C walnuts, diced small 

2 shallots, minced

1 t dried sage

2 T chopped fresh rosemary (or 1 T dried)

salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

1 large egg, lightly beaten

1 boned and tied pork loin roast, 4-5 lb.

1/4 C Dijon mustard

1/2 C packed light brown sugar

1 C dry white wine

2-3 C beef broth

2 bay leaves

1. Place the prunes and apricots in a small saucepan, covered with 1/2 cup of the bourbon, and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Simmer 10 minutes and remove from the heat. In a large mixing bowl, combine the fruit and liquid with the bread crumbs, walnuts, and shallots. Season with the sage, rosemary, salt and pepper. Bring this mixture together with the beaten egg. (Depending on how moist the bread crumbs are and how much bourbon the fruit absorbs, you may not need the whole egg to bind. The mixture should just stick togethr but not be soggy.)

2. Preheat the oven to 425 degrees.

 3. Untie the pork roast and gently pack the stuffing evenly over the center of the roast. Tie the roast back together and place it in a roasting pan (without the rack). Smear the mustard liberally all over the surface of the roast, then gently pat the brown sugar over the mustard. Season with salt and pepper.Pour the wine, remaining 1/2 cup bourbon and 2 cups broth around the roast. Add the bay leaves to the liquid.

4. Cover the roasting pan with foil and cook for 45 minutes. Uncover the pan and cook until a meat thermometer registers 160 degrees, 45 to 60 minutes more. Baste the roast occasionally with the pan juices, adding more broth if the liquid evaporates too rapidly.

5. Remove the roast from the oven, cover it with foil and let it rest for 5-10 minutes. Remove the foil and the strings and cut the roast into thick slices. Spoon some of the de-greased pan juices over the pork, if desired.

NOTE: This recipe calls for 1 1/2 hours of cooking time at 425 degrees. Another way to cook this is in a 350 degree oven for 20 minutes per pound.

PISCO SOUR

I was introduced to this drink during a cruise I took many years ago from Puerto Mont, south of Santiago in Chile, to the San Rafael glacier. Although it was an international cruise, on a very small boat, the conversation was all in Spanish. My friends and I were fortunate to have at our table, a couple from Brazil who could translate the dishes from which we could choose our meals. The official drink on the cruise was a Pisco Sour, made many times a day by the bartender in the little lounge/bar. I later learned that there are two versions of a Pisco Sour, the Chilean one and the Peruvian one. I've tried both kinds and they're really good and, like all smooth drinks, they sneak up on you. The liquor, Pisco, used to be hard to find but now most large liquor stores carry it. This recipe is for two drinks.

PISCO SOUR

Mix together 4 jiggers of Pisco with 2 T fine sugar, the juice of one lemon, an egg white and a cup of crushed ice. Shake vigorously for 20 seconds. Pour into glass and serve with straws. The Peruvian version adds a drop of bitters to the top of the drink. This would be a nice drink to serve at brunch, as an alternative to the acidic Bloody Mary.

ABOUT EGGS

Eggs get a bad rap. One of my friends says that egg yolks are poison and when he asks for poached eggs, eats very carefully all around the yolk, leaving it untouched, to be discarded. Lately, eggs have been enjoying a revival and even heath gurus tell us that eggs eaten in moderation are not so bad. Eggs are, after all, the perfect food. Here are some hints for preparing them in ways to take advantage of their goodness.

 

PERFECT HARD-BOILED EGGS

 

Put the eggs in a large heavy pot and cover them with 1 1/2" of cold water. Partially cover the pot and bring the water to a rolling boil. Reduce heat to low and cook the eggs, covered completely, for 30 seconds. Remove the pot from the heat and let the eggs stand in the hot water (still covered) for 15 minutes. Then run the eggs under cold water for about 5 minutes. This prevents yolk discoloration due to overcooking and makes peeling easier, as does using eggs that are at least a few days old.

 

 

TO CODDLE AN EGG

 

I guess this could mean to "treat gently." For the perfect egg for Caesar salad, lower a room temperature egg gently into a pan of simmering water and leave it there for one minute only.

 

 

SINFULLY CREAMY SCRAMBLED EGGS

 

At Bill's Café in Sydney, they serve these incredible scrambled eggs. Use a nonstick pan and the merest sliver of butter (a quarter of an ounce), a pinch of salt, no water and half a cup of cream for two eggs. (I know, I know. Just try it once.) Melt the butter over high heat, whisk the other ingredients together in a bowl, pour them into the pan and do nothing for 20 seconds. (Yes; I know that's hard to do. But it's important.) Then stir very slowly with a wooden spoon, folding the rim of the egg mixture toward the center. Don't churn away like a cement mixer. Pause for another 20 seconds, then repeat the gently stirring and folding process. Take the pan off the flame, allowing the residual heat in the pan to complete the cooking. Finally, give the eggs one last swirl. Et voila!

 

 

FOR VERY FLUFFY SCRAMBLED EGGS

 

Over low to moderate heat - except for omelets, eggs should be cooked slowly so protein in them doesn't make the eggs tough - scramble the eggs with a wire whisk from beginning to end. This makes very small curds, making the eggs lighter and fluffy.

 

 SCRAMBLED EGGS vs. OMELETS

 

 

When making omelets, you want the pan very hot so the omelet will cook quickly. Heat the bare pan until, when you toss a couple of drops of water into it, the water skitters around the pan like mad. Then throw in the butter, just enough to coat the surface of the pan. When the foam subsides, pour in the eggs and stir them in a circular motion with a fork (flat against the surface of the pan) while moving the pan back and forth over the burner (sort of like patting your head and rubbing your stomach at the same time; remember that?) tilting it so that egg runs into places where there are no eggs. Keep the whole thing going so that as the omelet sets, it still slides across the pan freely. When ready, add filling into 1/3 the surface, tilt the pan and roll the omelet out onto the plate, folding it over as you go. Most people like their eggs thoroughly cooked but remember that the omelet will cook some more on the plate and that the inside should be soft, not hard. It helps to have a pan you use only for omelets. And if you can, never wash it; just wipe it out. (When my omelet sticks to the surface of my omelet pan, I scrub the scab with some kosher salt and then wipe the pan clean.)

 

When making scrambled eggs, you want the pan to be only moderately hot so the eggs will cook slowly. When the pan is hot, melt the butter - more or less, depending on the number of eggs you're cooking - and throw in the eggs. If you're in a hurry, you can scrape away like mad. However, Alexander's mother always said that as the eggs begin to set, you should scrape them with a fork from the outside of the pan to the middle. This will create a pile in the middle of the pan and keep the eggs from being too firm.

TARRAGON SALAD

This salad is a real trip. From Jamie Oliver, it's the most creative (and one of the most difficult) salads I've served. Guests usually cannot identify the ingredients but they love the overall effect. And it's really good. And really unusual.

TARRAGON SALAD

serves 4

 

 

6 shallots, peeled and very thinly sliced (as thin as you can manage)

good vinegar, champagne, white or sherry

4 large handfuls of fresh tarragon, leaves picked off (this is the hard part)

1 small bunch of seedless red grapes, halved

1 small bunch of seedless green grapes, halved

6 T  extra virgin olive oil (the "extra" is important here)

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

7-oz good aged goat's cheese or hard salted ricotta

 

1. Put the shallots and vinegar together in a dish, making sure that the shallots are all covered by the vinegar, for about 10-15 minutes. They should be crunchy like pickled onions when ready.

 

2. Throw the tarragon leaves into a bowl, add the grapes, the shallots with only 5 T of their vinegar, and the olive oil. Toss this all together, taste it and add a little salt and pepper if it's needed. Go easy on the salt though, as the cheese will be quite salty. Use some tongs to pick up the salad and divide it between 4 plates. Grate or crumble the goat's cheese on top of each salad and drizzle over any remaining dressing. Or use a vegetable peeler to peel the cheese.

 

Note: keep all the ingredients cold and make this at the last minute before serving.