ASPARAGUS

If you're  not going to cook asparagus the minute you bring it home from the market, a good way to keep it fresh until you're ready to prepare it is to cut a little off the stem ends (like flower stems) and bunch the asparagus in a water glass with a little water in the bottom. Not too much water; just enough so the asparagus can get a little drink. Then tent the whole thing with a baggie and stick the tower into the refrigerator. Leave the baggie open at the bottom so the asparagus can breathe.

When you're ready to cook asparagus, bend each stalk with your fingers and it will break at a natural point where the asparagus is between coarse and tender. I throw the coarse stem ends away but you could use those ends to make asparagus soup. And about peeling it? I'm of the Julia Child school on that. A little peel never hurt anyone. To me, peeling asparagus is just a fancy waste of time. But, if you do want to peel it, lay each stalk down on a cutting board or some other flat surface and peel it with a vegetable peeler. If you hold the stalk up in the air while peeling it, the peeler with break the stalk

The big thing about asparagus is the timing. No one wants to eat it when its tough and stringy. Nor is it very good when limp and slimy and gray. And since it comes in different thicknesses, no simple, set timing is an accurate guide to the best result. And there are, of course, several ways to cook aspargus - steaming, boiling, roasting - each creating a finished product slightly different from the other. Each is interesting (especially rubbed with some olive oil and a smattered with parmesan cheese and roasted in the oven at a high temperature). 

But I prefer mine cooked in a wide, deep skillet of hot water. Bring the water to a rolling boil. Then just plonk the asparagus all at once down into the madly boiling water. Then, every few minutes, I poke a stalk with a fork. If the fork goes in relatively easily, it's done. Or, if you prefer, just take a stalk out of the water with tongs and bite off a piece. This way, you can grow accustomed to cooking asparagus just the way you like it. I like mine when it's still a little crisp. But remember: dont cook it too long. it's far better to undercook asparagus than to cook it too much.

There's nothing more tasty than asparagus hot, with just a little melted butter. But if you want to cook it beforehand, especially for a group, and serve it cold with a vinaigrette dressing, the
recipe here gives asparagus a dressed-up, special quality. After the asparagus is cooked, dry it thoroughly and wrap it with paper towels. I then put mine in a plastic bag (along with the paper towels) and stick the whole bundle into the refrigerator.

This recipe is actually meant as an appetizer to a fancy dinner. But I often use it to prepare asparagus as a side dish, especially when I'm serving my dinner as a buffet. I buy several bunches and double the recipe for the dressing. But use it as you like. It's always good

ASPARAGUS WITH PICKLED GINGER AND SHALLOTS

serves 4

2 1/2 lbs asparagus, trimmed and peeled, if dersired

2 T white wine vinegar

1 t Dijon style mustard

1 1/2 T drained pickled ginger slices, plus 4 t julienne strips

1/4 C vegetable oil (non-flavored, like Mazola)

2 T finely chopped shallots

2 t snipped fresh chives

1. In a large deep skillet of boiling salted water, cook the asparagus for 3 to 7 minutes, or until the stalks are done to your liking. They should be tender, but not limp. Transfer the asparagus to a bowl of ice and cold water to stop the cooking and hold the color, which should be a rich green. Drain the asparagus and pat it dry. (At this point, you can hold it in the refrigerator wrapped in paper towels until you're ready to use it.)

2. In a blender (or food processor), blend together the vinegar, the mustard, the 1 1/2 tablesppons ginger slices, and salt and pepper to taste and with the motor running, add the oil in a slow stream, blending the dressing until emulsified.

3. If you're preparing this as an appetizer for dinner, spread a little dressing on each plate and spread each evenly with shallots and chives. Divide the asparagus among the plates and garnish with the julienne ginger. If you're serving this for a buffet, spread the asparagus out evenly on a platter and slather it lightly with the dressing. Sprinkle with the shallots and chives and garnish with the juliennne ginger.

Note: pickled ginger is available in jars, usually found in the gourmet or ethnic food section of your grocery store.